Port Wood has touches of anise, red fruit, spices and a long rosehip syrup finish; Sherry Wood has full-on oloroso notes, tending to nut and spice with some cake mix and pear; and Madeira Wood is a fascinating mix of dried mushroom, spice and charred wood ending with a salty tang. Not only does the firm now insist on using only ex-Bourbon casks made from air-dried wood from certain slopes in the Ozarks, but it also controls what type of warehouses are used to age the Glenmorangie stocks. Neither are these old guys looking back with rose-tinted glasses. They are pinning it down to the microclimate within each warehouse. T don’t believe in change for change’s sake and altering production to cu the workforce is beyond me. With an ever-expanding range of finishes and plans to release a malt made from barley grown on its own farm, the range just keeps growing. Light spice and a hint of sooty wood. This is a youni team well aware of the needs of today’s J industry, but faithful to tradition.

Few distilleries have been as transformed I the malt explosion as Glenmorangie. He was turning valves, nudging the temperature this way and that, and always listening; for, as he explained, part of his jol is knowing the significance of each sound -whether it’s the change in pitch of the pump or the switchers girning away. A mix of bracing air and vanilla on the finish. Brilliant.



The water and stills each play their part in creating Glenmorangie’s spicy, pear-drop and apple character, but it is rounded out and given added complexity by a wood policy, masterminded by Bill Lumsden, that’s among the tightest in the industry.’ That was music to the ears of Brian Gilmour, who was mashing as we chatted. ’I’m a traditionalist, but a realist as well,’ says Graham. Graham believes this is the difference between a malt-led company and a blend-led one. ’The fact it’s manual keeps you involved,’ he says.
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I worked for a blend-led firm before this and you were a number.1 running battle with Number Two wash still tor years,’ says Graham. Can you imagine if Glenmorangie was the 16 megabytes of Tain?’

The workforce here understands their distillery’s little quirks - from the use of ha water to the tall, slim stills that stand like elegant pillars in the cathedral-like stillhou Their height and narrowness means not only this there’s considerable interplay between vapour and copper, but that only the lightest Vti pours can force their way to the top. ’In til 1970s there were two stills and we were selling five cases of malt a year," says manager Graham Eunson. But running four wash and four spirit stills at-the mme time takes great skill, especially as some of them behave differently. ’You can come in and he’s yelling at it. you replace a mashman with computer equipment then you have to employ an evei more expensive engineer to solve any problems. The longest serving man here, Kenny McDonald, has had . ’It giv< it that personal touch - and there’s always something to be done!’

It means that Glenmorangie’s long-running 16 Men of Tain campaign is no PR gloss. The people who took the decisions on whether you are open or shut didn’t know who they were affecting or how their decisions impacted on people and communities.

’I’ve yet to be convinced of the benefits) computerization in a distillery,’ says Graha ’And I’m yet to be convinced that the capit expenditure needed to install computerization justifies laying a man off. Delicate but with a good, smooth and soft body. It just doesn’t behave. The guys here have strong feelings about Glenmorangie’s success. Soft and long, with a great mix of blossom-like top notes, a creamy palate and a salty tang on the end. You might expect space-age control panels, but you won’t find any.

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